Steffen's Dinners - Recipes and Photos

Two weeks ago I was in Geneva, Switzerland for a business trip. In addition to the usual excess of Cheese Fondue I also had some really wonderful foamed dishes at a friend's house and in a nice restaurant.

So I decided to try this myself. I read up on the theory of culinary foams in On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, bought a food and cream whipper and tried to use theory and device to create a recipe of Espuma of Chanterelles with Filet Mignon and Asparagus.

Surprisingly enough, the experiment worked out really well and resulted in a wonderfully light and very flavorful chanterelle sauce.

For this recipe you will need a cream whipper that can be used for hot sauces. I bought a iSi Professional Food & Cream Gourmet Whipper - Brushed Stainless Steel which seems to work really well.

Here the recipe for the chanterelle foam:

Ingredients

• 7 oz / 200g chanterelles
• 2 tbsp shallots, chopped
• 2 tsp olive oil
• 1 clove garlic
• 1/8 tsp saffron strands
• 1/8 tsp cayenne pepper
• pinch of dried tarragon
• ¼ tsp salt (or to taste)
• ½ cup / 120ml dry white wine
• ½ cup / 120ml chicken stock
• ¼ cup and 2 tbsp / 90ml water
• 1/8 tsp freshly ground pepper
• 1 egg yolk
• 4 oz / 120g unsalted butter, melted
• 4 steaks - filet mignon
• green asparagus

Preparation

1. Clean the chanterelles, cut into large pieces of equal size
2. In a heavy pan heat up olive oil over medium heat, add whole garlic clove and cook until golden brown.
3. Reduce heat, add shallots, cook until softened, do not brown.
4. Add chanterelles, cook until soft. Add spices, white wine, chicken stock and water. Simmer for another 5 minutes.
5. Puree with a stick blender, strain.
6. Temper the egg yolk by whisking in small amounts of chanterelle puree, then whisk egg yolk into the puree.
7. Use the stick blender to slowly blend in the melted butter. The sauce should be a smooth emulsion.
8. Fill into cream whipper, charge (per instructions, I used two chargers). Keep warm in a water bath while you cook the steaks and the asparagus.
9. Spray a thick layer of sauce on warm plates. Add the meat and the asparagus. Serve immediately.

Notes

• The foam also tastes really good cold. Instead of keeping it warm, place the cream whipper in the fridge for a few hours. The cold foam will be lighter and more stable.

Yields 4 servings

Preparation time ca. 60-90 minutes